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European Fashion

Philéas Fogg, our hero of Le Tour du Monde en 80 Jours, is the perfect gentleman in every way, and not least in appearance. In those days, what one wore was very important in making a social statement: the way you dressed said which class you belonged to, whether you were of noble descent or not; whether you were rich or not (and if not, helped you to hide this sorry fact!) Philéas Fogg was always impeccably dressed, changing into light-colored morning coats and darker evening coats whenever appropriate.

In the 19th Century, clothing for males became very sober and restrained, made to suit the dignity and image of a true gentleman. In the mid 1820's, they would wear the typical trousers, collared shirt, as waistcoat and a coat, but in the 1850's as the textiles industry grew stronger, these were made of dark wool. A larger variety of cuts and styles were available, so men could make more of a choice as to which look suited them best. The 19th century also brought a new addition to the mechanical watch of the 1500's in Germany. The watch was then carried on a chain, giving it a pendulum appearance. Men would carry this watch in their waistcoat pocket and it became a fashionable accessory which added to the image of the true gentleman.
	Women's fashions were designed in reticence and modesty. In the late 1830's they began to take on a "downward" effect, comprising of sloping dress shoulders, poked bonnets and layers upon layers of petticoats covered by a bodice. It was an indecent act to show your ankles. In Victorian Britain, they even covered up the piano legs! By 1859, the petticoats were replaced by light wire structures called "crinolines". Aniline dyes were used to produce brightly colored fabrics. The 1870's brought a boned style on the bodice and skirt of dresses, producing the hourglass shape. This "princess line" did not rely on support under the skirt; the bustle reappeared in the 1880's in very exaggerated form.       (Mr&Mrs Sisley, by Renoir)
In the1860's the crinoline was replaced by the "bustle". The bustle was a pad of horsehair that was tied around the waist and protruded behind. The back of the dress gathered in folds. This was said to resemble a character in Dickens's "Barnaby Rudge."
	Fashion conscious 19th century society even extended to horse-drawn carriages: the daily ride was a popular passtime and a very "gentlemanly" thing to do. The horse driver would wear a top hat, white gloves and gold or brass buttons on the coat. The carriage would be beautifully decorated and the horses would have plumes on their heads. Sometimes the driver also would have a plume on his hat. The grooms were all dressed in splendid livery. The whole outfit would be in the famiy colours and emblazoned with the family coat-of-arms. The upper class would take rides in parks in all their finery.

19th Century fashion around the world

Indian Man	An Indian princess?
An Egyptian family photo	An Egyptian landowner
A swimming lesson!!	BACK TO TOP